Palenque, located in Chiapas, but more easily  reached via an excellent highway from Villahermosa, is one of the most significant and beautiful archaeological sites anywhere. Its pyramid structures feature intricately carved bas-reliefs depicting historical and mythical events  relating to the reign of a Mayan ruler, Lord Pacal, and his descendants.

Though today Palenque is shrouded in the mists of a tropical jungle, from 500 to 800 A .D. it was a major power in the Mayan  world. Dominating the site is the Temple of the Inscriptions, so named because of the wall of hieroglyphics at its summit. In 1952 Mexican archaeologist  Alberto Ruz Lhuillier investigated some holes in a slab of the temple floor and discovered a stairway, then filled with rubble, leading to the tomb of a ruler  since identified as Lord Pacal (615-683 A.D.). The lid of his sarcophagus is a  work of art and is on view in the tomb.

Much of the site has yet to be excavated. An excellent new museum here features many of the precious relics found to date.

About an hour's drive south of Palenque are  the beautiful Agua Azul Cascades, a great place to go after a visit to the ruins for a refreshing swim, a picnic, or just to admire the unusual light blue cascading waters. Rock formations break up the flow of water into a series of  calm pools that are wonderful for wading. Visitors can follow a trail up the  hill to the source of the cascade. Set aside about two hours for the hike and a  swim.

About a three-hour drive from Palenque is the  archaeological site of Tonina, near the town of Ocosingo. This drive is  partially on unpaved roads with extraordinarily beautiful scenery. Tonina has  great architecture, and archaeology buffs will appreciate the sculpture and  significance of the site as revealed in glyphs at Palenque.