Presenting family and friends with decorated sugar skulls with their name written across the forehead may be deemed black humour, if not a  threat or an offense, by most Western Europeans. But Mexicans take a more  light-hearted view on death, largely inspired by indigenous beliefs and traditions, and the giving of sugar-candy skulls on the Día de los Muertos (All Saints and All Souls) is a sign of affection.

Like so many Catholic holidays, Todos Santos is celebrated (yes, celebrated!) in a much more joyful manner in Mexico than in Western  Europe. While Europeans mourn at their loved ones' graves, many Mexicans  celebrate at the cemetaries with music, dance and lots of delicious food!  Heartless, or even cruel, you may say!

Not at all, because it is the belief that  on the night of November 1-2, the dead will return for a precious 24  hours, and what better way to spend your time with them than by celebrating? (Which also explains why the locals feast by the graves -- the dead need strength for their journeys to and from the underworld, after all!)

The Día de los Muertos (Day of deads)  is probably Mexico's most characteristic festival -- and the best place to experience it is in the region surrounding Lake Pátzcuaro in Michoacán. Set in the heart of Purépecha country, the day of the dead celebrations near Pátzcuaro have  a mystical air to them, and are firmly rooted in pre-Hispanic traditions.

As the locals take to the cemetaries, they build special ofrendas (altars) of yellow marigolds and other flowers, dot the graves with candles, and  hold vigil from midnight on the night of November 1-2.